150,461 MILE UPDATE: Oily, Tired, and Tense...

Vic 3.0 has been getting some attention lately.  First new shocks/struts, then a new fan belt, then a new fan belt tensioner, and then today a nice (overdue) Mobil 1 oil change and a set of brand spankin' new Goodyear RS-A tires.  

The belt tensioner wasn't planned.  When we installed the new belt, we noticed that it took more effort than usual to move the tensioner to get the belt on/off.  On the belt went, and out into the ether emanated a horrible screech when I started the car.  I assumed the belt just needed to seat itself into position.

Wellp, the next day the sound was SO bad, not just when the car started, but every time I had to use the throttle from a stop.  I dropped by Upholstery Guy's shop and he suggested I get a can of belt dressing.  I took his advice, and it seemed to help.  By the end of the day, the sound was gone.  BUT every time the car started up cold, that screech was there, scaring birds and neighbors.

On to Rock Auto I went, and ordered a Motorcraft belt tensioner.  I planned on installing it myself as all I needed to do was remove one bolt, but Taxi Guy did it for me before I knew what had happened!  (150,327 miles)  Now, everything is nice and quiet.  I almost think I can hear a difference as well.  

As for the tires, I waited and searched and scored a set for a decent price.  RS-A's don't have a high treadwear rating (it's about performance, not longevity) but even so, they made me realize the old set NEEDED to be replaced.  They were all over 10 years old so had some age-cracking, and had worn enough to be good for dry weather speed, but NOT safe for rain.

Now, the last time I put this much money into a car, it ended up being totaled by my mother.  I sure hope nothing happens to this one, too!!  

HOW TO Change a Cabin Filter in a 2013 Ford Taurus / Police Interceptor Sedan

The following is a pictorial guide to changing the cabin filter in a 2013 Ford Police Interceptor Sedan, aka Taurus.  From what I have seen, this procedure SHOULD be the same for police and civilian models up to the 2019 model year.

First, get yourself a brand spankin' new filter.  We went with a Motorcraft FP-68 (AE9Z-19N619-A).

You will need to remove the glove box for easier access to the old filter.  Basically, you squeeze the sides of the box so that it opens all the way... then it falls out and everything falls onto the floor, which is why you will remove everything from the glove box FIRST!

Prior to starting this project, I watched some videos online so I would know exactly where to look for the filter.  So when I stuck my head under the dash I started to worry, because I didn't see ANYTHING that looked like the slot where the filter lives.  I kept following the vent ducts and didn't see a darn thing... Then I got mad and looked straight forward, and THERE IT WAS.

Basically there is a little cover, or "trap door", if you will, that has two latches and two tabs.  Undo the latches, and slide the cover down.  Now you will see the nasty old filter staring at you.  Slide it out and marvel at the nastiness!

As you can see, the cabin filter DOES actually DO something!  This vehicle started life 130,940 miles ago as a police cruiser in New Hampshire, which may explain all of the pine needles and dried leaf bits...

I wrote the mileage and date onto the new filter, just to be anal...

 

Make sure there's no leftover nastiness in the air-box, and install the new filter.

Now you can reinstall the glove box.  This means you can reorganize all of the old registrations, inspection receipts, and sugar packets.  NOTE that the left side of the glove box has some sort of plastic limiter which fell apart when I tried to reinstall the box.  One end has a tab that slides into a slot on the box.  This part connects to a second part with an odd elastic fitting.  I think I got everything back together correctly.

SHOCKING! Front End Edition 2018

Wellp, after 12 years and 184,944 miles, the front shocks in Vic 2.0 were finally replaced.  A while ago I noticed a stain appearing on the driveway under the front passenger side of the car.  Then I noticed some odd handling characteristics.  Things finally got to the point I had to decide if I should replace the shocks ONLY, or the whole spring/shock unit... which I think is a strut.

After driving 1.0 for 15 years, I forgot that the front end of 2.0 is totally different.  In 1.0, you could easily replace the shock alone.  But after searching for new shocks online, and looking at my Ford shop manual, I came to the realization that no matter what, you need to take the spring and shock out TOGETHER, because to replace the shock you need to use a spring compressor.

SO, go with just new shocks to save money, but pay for more labor?  Pay more for parts, but for less labor?  I asked Taxi Guy and he said "get the complete units if you can", which I did.  The last 2 correct Motorcrafts that Rock Auto had in stock were shipped to me and the job was done on 5/28/18.

The maiden voyage with the upgrades wasn't what I expected.  The rest of the suspension was still worn, after all.  And I had to remind myself that this wasn't Ma's 1999 Town Car!  New springs and shocks on a police package car does not mean a "Cloud-like Ride"!  But I did notice improvements while banging over local potholes.  It was on the highway that I noticed the improvement more.

Bridge expansion joints are much better now.  And it seems that high-speed turns are better as well.  In fact, and I didn't tell you this, I managed to out-accelerate and out-drive a rather new Mercedes SUV in tight traffic.  He was attempting to make some stupid, aggressive moves and I sorta ruined that for him...................

While taking the photos for this post, I was surprised to see how clean things look under the front of 2.0.  I have had far fewer glances under this car than 1.0.  I only wish the body was as solid...