REPAIR: Third Brake Light Bulb Replacement

Third brake light.
Center brake light.
Center high mount brake light.

Whatever you call it, sometimes you need to change the bulbs inside.  I knew I had one of the two burned out, but last month while backing up I noticed via glass storefront reflection I had TWO burned out.

The good thing about the situation was I finally was forced to fix the package tray, which someone misaligned at some point, probably while removing some police equipment. 

If you haven't done this simple job before, here's all you need to know:

TOOLS:

- two human hands

- Phillips screwdriver

- bulbs, in this case Sylvania 912 

- OPTIONAL:  awl or other pointy object

STEPS:

1) remove the two screws from the side of the light housing

2) pinch the two white plastic tabs, slip assembly out of housing

3) pull bad bulbs UP and out of assembly

4) PUSH IN new bulbs (I like to make sure there's no grease/dirt/finger shmoo on them)

5) Push the while assembly back into the housing until you feel a click

6) Align the housing to the two black mounts on the rear deck.  You may want to use a thin screwdriver or awl to locate the holes and keep things aligned.

7) tighten screws

8) apply foot to brake pedal and ask someone to see if you accomplished your mission, OR use a mirror/window (glass won't congratulate you for a job well done, though)

UPDATE: Oil and Refrigerant

5/7/26

Vic's A/C had been acting strange.  I remembered that last year, it would take a while to kick in and blow cold.  This season, the few days so far that have been warm, it would take anywhere from 10-60 minutes to go blow cold!  Thing is, I didn't hear the compressor go on and off like usual when the refrigerant is low.  For kicks, because it was on clearance, I tried one of those DYI rechargers.  The built-in pressure gauge was pinned to the max.  Wellp, long story short, "Taxi Guy" is up from Florida for the season and working at a local repair shop, and they did an oil change and filled the refrigerant.   They told me if I notice it ever acting up again, to come back in since they used a UV dye to detect any leaks.  Next week it's supposed to get into the 80s, so it will get a good test!

5/13/26

Over the last month or so, I've caught a whiff of gas odor when parked in the driveway.  The other day, it seemed even stronger.  I didn't see any drips anywhere on the ground, and the filler-neck was also dry.  My boyfriend actually got under the car yesterday after I said "what about the fuel filter?".  Taxi Guy was able to replace it today.  He said he actually needed help removing the old filter without breaking anything, it was so stuck onto the fuel lines!  He thinks it may very well be ORIGINAL... Should be interesting watching for any changed in fuel mileage and acceleration.

UPDATE: Fastback Vic Returns!!

After having a Crown Vic parked in the same section of the driveway since 2000, I usually know what things will look like after snow.

As I type, Massachusetts is in the middle of a "Noreestaa", or "nor'easter" to foreigners.  That means the return of FASTBACK VIC!

The wind blows snow in such a way there will be a totally bare spot on the upper-driver corner of the windshield, and a big snow wedge on the trunk, making the entire car look like some sort of sleek, frosting-covered fastback car.

MILESTONE: 200,000 MILES!!!

FINALLY!

I have gotten a car to hit 200,000 miles!  

Vic 3.0 hit 200,000 miles on 1/19/2026

Vic 3.0 wasn't expected to still be on the road today!  I assumed it was going to be way too rotted at this point.  But it just keeps running and driving GREAT!

Cars that ALMOST made it:
1986 Pontiac Parisienne - Mechanical problems
1987 Mercury Grand Marquis - Transmission problems
1998 Ford Crown Victoria LX - Rust/Wear
2006 Ford Crown Victoria P71 - Accident

REPAIR: Transmission Lines (approx 177,000 miles)

(June 2024 - approx 177,000 Miles)

This one's almost too painful to recollect!  But here's an abridged version of the repair experience... 

There had been some random drips appearing under Vic's front end for a while, but I couldn't actually see anything dripping.  Fluid levels all were pretty OK.  Then the drips got worse, and I was actually getting wispy smoke from under the hood, so we got under and looked around.  Sure enough, the transmission lines were rusting through in two areas.

LONG story short, as many of you know, these lines are no longer available from Ford, and it appears NO ONE offers them aftermarket.

I managed to score an NOS set, and we thought we could install them ourselves in Todd's driveway.  ANOTHER long story short, do NOT try this job at home unless you have a lift and LOTS of patience.  In the end, especially after one fitting snapped off in the housing, we had to give up with the old lines still stuck on the car, and have the car towed to a transmission shop I had used before for my Javelin.

Other than their obviously using another vehicle to push the car into their shop, they did a great job.

Transmission fluid had been seeping through these areas, then actual drips began

Take a good look... HARD to find

Car vs. Man... guess who won that day?

Vic takes a trip to the transmission shop

REPAIR: Front Brake Pads (approx 182,000 miles)

Front Brake Pads (only) - 10/28/24 (mileage approx 182K)

REPAIR: Rear Brake Rotors & Pads (approx 170,000 miles)

Rear Brake Rotors & Pads - 12/2/23 (mileage approx 170K)

Went with Bendix

Crusty old rotor

Old vs. New Rotor

Old vs. New Pad

Emergency brake shoe... the less said, the better!